Blitz twin turbo installation

[TLicense]

OK next it's time to remove the stock 02 sensor:-



This is what mine looked like after 100K miles of use:-



As I'm not going to be using this sensor with the twin kit, I decided to completely remove it:-



The grey connector I spoke of earlier:-



O2 sensor and loom:-



I may well keep the bracket, and cut the grey connector off the o2 sensor, and wire it up to my EGT probe so it will work with the stock loom.

[Jspec Germany]

Damn Tony. Top Notch! A write up to be envied and followed for sure. Way to go establishing the benchmark!

[TLicense]

The next bit was as much of a pain as getting the hoses off earlier....

Removing the Exhaust gas control valve. This sounds a very simply thing to remove. There's a bracket which has a bolt and a nut to undo, and then there's 3 bolts, and the whole assembly "should" just come away.
I spent about 10 minutes trying to get a photo of the 3 nuts. Unfortunately my digi cam is an SLR, and it's a little large for getting into tight spaces. I managed to get a picture of this nut underneath:-



And you can just make out a second nut in the gloom of this pic. There was no way I could get to this bolt from underneath. The stud for the o2 sensor is just below the stud for this nut, so I couldn't use a socket, so get at it from the top use a spanner and a breaker bar to leaver the spanner to get it to budge. Not the best way to undo things but needs must:-



There's a 3rd nut 120degree's around the pipe. To get this undone I used a 14mm 1/2" drive socket with a universal joing and about 9" of extension bars. It was a real pain, but it came off in the end.
Onec the bolts are undone the assembly comes apart in 2 sections:-





Be careful not to drop or bang the second section if you're looking to keep the valve as apparently the valve is ceramic.

Here you can clearly see the bolt arrangement.

[TLicense]

OK that's me for the moment. Will hopefully attack it again maybe thursday or friday evening, and finish stripping them off over the weekend.

Originally Posted by Jake

That coolant hose from the rear of the cylinder head that goes to the heater matrix is a right bugger to get off. Getting it back on is damn near impossible.
After 20mins I gave up trying to the fit the OE sprung clip back on and used a jubilee clip instead.

Yeah I know exactly what you mean. I split the other hose about a year ago and undid this hose to get to it, so I replaced the clip with a new one then, otherwise I think I would have struggled more.

Originally Posted by scooter

agree with Jake, i imagine its bad enough doing this let alone fannying around taking pics every 5 minutes so top marks from me

Cheers Scooter, it's not the time it takes to do the pictures, it's remembering to take one at each stage, and not just rush on and undo the next bit. I can see myself forgetting to take a pic of a fundamental stage and having to bolt bits back on!

Originally Posted by matt h

Wow awesome write up! one thing tho, how much was the turbo kit cos i think i might be due for a new set up, not of my choice tho!

Thanks for your kind words! The exact same kit, brand new, as mine is, is I believe, still available here :-
http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthr...itz+twin+turbo
However you can expect to spend probably at least £2.5-3K on top for fabricating/IC/fuel system/ and mapping. If you don' already have a programmable ECU of some kind, that will also need to be factored in.

[Bobbeh]

Great write up Tony, very informative, keep it coming

[Ian C]

Once it's done I'll poach it for the Tech articles if you don't mind Tony

Seeing the stockers getting removed in such detail gives me flashbacks

-Ian

[TLicense]

Managed to do a little bit more this evening.....

The next step is to remove the turbo support brackets. There's two of them, here's a pic of the no.2 turbo stay:-



and this was the best shot I could get of the number 1 turbo stay upper fixing. I had to get to this by reaching up in front of the steering rack:-



No word of a lie, this is what I used to get these un-done. Really I could have done with a deep 14mm socket due to the length of the stud, but I didn't have one for 1/2"drive, and only had enough extensions for 1/2", I loosened the socket so it wasn't fully clipped onto the universal joint, and it just about managed to work:-



Here's the number 1 turbo stay removed:-



and number 2:-



Next I removed the oil feed/return for both turbo's. This was a real pain of a job, as again I had to use a ridiculous number of extensions to get to the nuts on the bottom of the turbo. Here's where it joins onto the bottom of the number 2 turbo (the easy one to get to!):-



Here's where the feed from on the engine block is. I used a 19mm socket to remove it. Make sure you put some towel under this banjo bolt as you undo it, as there was still quite a bit of oil in this pipe:-



I just about managed to get this pic of the oil feed banjo bolt for the no.1 turbo. Sorry for the quality, but it's a real tight squeeze! For reference This was taken from just below and in front of where the steering column meets the steering rack:-

[TLicense]

I really struggled with removing the turbo oil feed hoses. Basically, as you can see in this pic, you need to seperate the hoses where the metal hard lines meet the rubber hose. After 13 years of being in 1 piece these were a real pain to undo, and took me some amount of time. As I'm not going to be using the oil return housing I removed that at the same time. I took a few shots of the bore diameters for reference. I'll try to remember to take a rule with me next time and get some with it in for scale reference:-



Turbo inlet and return diameter:-


Oil return housing diameter:-

[TLicense]

Unfortunately, that's all I managed today, but hopefully on Saturday I'll be able to finish off removing the turbo's.....

[Rich]

good stuff Tony,keep up the good work!

[Pete]

I'm really impressed with the photography and focusing. This is really interesting stuff. Thanks for doing it!

[MONKEYmark]

nice work.never get tired of seeing step by step work pics.its good stripping supra down seeing how well its made.i stripped mine down a few times.its good to see and learn

thanks

[TLicense]

Originally Posted by Pete

I'm really impressed with the photography and focusing. This is really interesting stuff. Thanks for doing it!

Cheers Pete, it's all done with a Canon EOS300D with a 28-90mm Ultrasonic lens, pretty much just using the standard picture mode. A couple of time it's struggled to focus, so I've just done it manually. Sometime's using an slr makes it difficult to get into tight places, and I'm always worried about scratching the lens.
All the photo's I've got at about twice the resolution of the ones I'm posting, but I think the size I'm posting is about as large as most people would want to see in a thread. If anyone wanted the larger pics for any reason, then feel free to pm me.

[TLicense]

Got quite a bit done today.

Before removing the turbo , you need to undo both of these hoses. Again after 13 years of living in 1 piece it wasn't keen on being seperated, and was a real pain to try and seperate.



Once both of those hoses are undone, you can remove the turbo outlet elbow (the bit that holds the turbo's on!) On a J-spec there's 6 bolts (3 on each turbo) but on a UK spec there's 4. They were very difficult to undo, and there's not enough space between the end of the studs and the exhaust manifold to get a socket on them so you have to use a spanner. I suggest using a decent ring spanner so you don't round the nuts off. That would be a real pain! Here's some pics of the 3 bolts on each turbo (There's 2 on the top and 1 on the bottom on no.1 turbo and vice versa on no. 2):-

1 on the bottom of no.1 turbo:-

2 on the top of no.1 turbo:-

1 on the top of no.2 turbo:-

2 on the bottom on no.2 turbo:-


With these undone, with a good deal of wriggling you should be able to remove the turbo assembly. Be careful they're quite heavy, and you don't want to scratch all the paint off the engine bay. I lined mine with towel to help protect it. Here's how it all looked once I'd got them off:-

[TLicense]

To remove the exhaust manifold there are 12 nuts on the studs. Now you really don't want to shear one of these studs, so absolutely soak these in WD40 for a good couple of hours. I left mine whilst I watched the football . Once they're undone the manifold should come off fairly easily:-







That's step no.1 pretty much done. Turbo's have been removed!