Blitz twin turbo installation

[supraaaaaaaaaa]

Originally Posted by TLicense

Not really looking for any particular bhp figure, just going to build it up and see what it gets.

It's not sequential though. It is, most definitely, true twin.

oh okay cool cant wait to see what you get out of it

[JamieP]

great write up, well done ill be watching this

[TLicense]

Fitted my Chris Wilson intercooler today. Details can be found here:-

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=73003

[TLicense]

Did a lot more work today.
I wanted to clear up all the odds and sods that I won't be using, mainly the vsv pressure tank and the fuel pulsation dampener.
Although it's possible to remove these without removing the intake manifold, as I'm changing the injectors and fuel rail, I figured I may as well strip the intake side off, and get to these two items from above. If anyone wants to simply replace the injectors most of this will be applicable. Here's how to....

First of all remove the air hose from the throttle body:-





Next remove the following connectors from the throttle body:-
The throttle position connector:-

The sub-throttle position sensor connector:-

and the sub throttle acuator connector:-


Then remove the 4 fasteners that hold throttle body to the intake chamber. There's 2 bolts at the top:-

and 2 nuts at the bottom, which to get to you'll need an extension bar on your 12mm socket:-


With those undone, you can pull the throttle body away from the intake chamber. Remove the gasket:-

[TLicense]

There's a few hoses that you need to remove from the throttle body before you can completely remove it.

The EVAP hose:-


The Water bypass hose from the no.4 water bypass pipe You can see it here attached to the bottom of the throttle body, there's another water by-pass hose just behind it as well:-

Lastly you need to remove the power steering air hose:-


With those undone you can remove the throttle body:-

Here's what the intake chamber looks like with the throttle body removed:-


Next remove the dipstick and dipstick guide. If you've got an auto, you'll also need to remove the auto transmission oil dipstick and guide. I have a 6 speed so didn't need to do this. To remove the dispstick guide there's 1 bolt:-


Remove the fuel line from the clamp that is part of the dipstick guide, and then pull the dipstick guide upwards. It will pull away from the oil pan:-


Next remove the air intake chamber stay, and the throttle cable bracket, there's 1 bolt and 1 nut on the chamber stay, and two bolts on the throttle cable bracket:-

[TLicense]

Next remove the idle solenoid control valve connector:-

Disconnect the turbo pressure sensor connector. I don't use the stock sensor, even though it is still attached to the intake chamber:-

Here's my AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor, that I'm using instead:-

The manual for the UK says to remove the VSV for fuel pressure control, but this doesn't look like a VSV. I think it's the intake temp. sensor, which the UK spec doesn't have (mines a J-spec):-


Next remove the PCV hose from the VSV valve:-


I also have my Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator attached to the back of the intake chamber, which I had to remove:-


Next remove the Water bypass hose from the ISC valve to the no.4 by-pass hose. I found it a lot easier to actually remove the ISC valve from the intake manifold, and then disconnect the hoses there. There's 2 bolts for the ISC valve:-

[TLicense]

There's a one way valve to prevent air blowing backwards through the ISC valve. Note the orientation for when you re-install:-





Next remove the EVAP hose from the vacuum pipe on the manifold stay:-

And the EVAP hose from the vacuum pipe on the no.4 water bypass pipe to the no.2 vacuum pipe, unfortunatey I didn't get a good pic of it, but it's the hose under the purple connector for my MAP sensor. Also in the pic is the Power steering air hose for the intake chamber, which also needs to be removed:-

Next remove the brake booster vacuum hose. There's a couple of copper washers, remove them too:-

Next remove the EVAP hose from the charcoal cannister from the no.2 vacuum pipe:-

Next remove the no.4 water bypass pipe, there's 2 bolts:-

[TLicense]

Next remove the intake manifold stay, there's 1 bolt at the top, and 1 at the bottom. I couldn't get a decent shot of the lower bolt. If you follow the stay down though, it's easiest to get to the lower bolt from under the car:-


Next remove the electrical wire clamp. This is a bit of a nightmare job, as there isn't lots of room between the end of the manifold and the firewall. If you use a short 12mm socket it will help for the second bolt. I used a 12mm spanner for the first bolt:-


Next remove the ground wire from the intake manifold, you can just make it out here:-

Next remove the bolt from the clamp that holds the diagnostic port:-


Next remove the 5 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the intake chamber on (There's another 2 bolts that I didn't manage to get pics of, they're right under the manifold, under the no.2 and no.5 runners) :-

[TLicense]

With those removed you can remove the intake manifold:-



You should be left with an engine bay that looks like this, remove the gasket for the inlet manifold:-


Next to remove the injector rail, first of all remove the stock fuel pressure regulator. As I've got an aftermarket one, it was just a case of removing the adaptor:-

Next remove all of the injector connectors. You may want to label them, but to be honest they'll pretty much only go on the injector they should go to as the loom points them in the right direction. Also remove the two camshaft position sensors:-

Next remove the fuel inlet pipe, place a towel under the union as you undo it to prevent fuel spillage:-


Remove the 6 bolts and the 3 injector holder plates:-



Next remove the 2 bolts holding the injector rail, the first pic is rubbish, sorry, but the bolt is the one in the middle:-

[TLicense]

With those two bolts removed the rail should just pull off:-


Be careful to collect all the injector insulators, here you can see the one on the left was left on the manifold, whilst the one on the right came away with the rail:-


Here's what the rail looks like removed:-


You should now be left with something looking like this:-


That's it for if you're just replacing the injectors. I'll be fitting my new rail and injectors in a couple of weeks time, so I'll post up how to fit them. In the mean while I continued with cleaning up the bits I wanted to remove.

To get to the pressure cannistor and the fuel pulsation dampener I decided to remove the inlet manifold runners.
To do this first of all unbolt the pressure cannistor, and remove the two hoses for the VSV, and the two hoses to the actual cannistor, here you can just make out the VSV, there's a bolt either side that you need to undo:-


With that undone, next undo the 2 bolts holding the wiring loom:-



and the bolt holding the fuel inlet pipe:-


With that done, it's just a case of undoing the 8 fasteners holding the inlet runner on:-


And then you can remove the pressure cannistor:-

[TLicense]

And you should be left with this:-


Next to remove the fuel pulsation dampener, I chose to undo the line from the filter to the dampener, as this is going to be replaced anyway:-


There's 2 bolts holding the fuel pulsation dampener. They were done up real tight:-


With them undone, you can remove the fuel pulsation dampener:-



And that was pretty much it for today!

[DamanC]

Remind me never to do anything like this myself!

Fantastic write up so far buddy

[Gaz Walker]

Now I see why you need the gaskets so quickly!

Awesome write-up Tony!

Gaz.

[TLicense]

LOL cheers guys, hopefully the final install will actually be worthy of similar compliments.

[TLicense]

Cleaned up the inlet manifold runners today.
Remember before:-

After:-


With the powerhouse racing fuel rail and a couple of injectors fitted:-



Am quite pleased with it if I say so myself